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CITYLIFE / Eating Out
Shangri-La strikes gold at Jade
By Aubrey Buckingham (Shanghai Daily)
Updated: 2007-09-11 10:27
The city's more adventurous foodies can now enjoy a memorably
entertaining dining experience with the latest additions to Jade on 36's
menu.
The Pudong Shangri-La's top-floor, top-drawer restaurant has often been
given the molecular tag, but French chef Paul Pairet has been and
continues to be adamant that, like grandfather of the movement Ferran
Adria himself, his fare defies the now-conventional label. This is not a
revolution of contemporary cuisine but rather an evolution.
Diners can see more clearly now the moniker was simply selected out of
convenience by lazy journalists, as is often the case. Instead, the
degustation menus are aimed at turning the notion of what we see, feel
and taste on its head and throw it back to us in surprising ways.
As before, the set meals come in three sizes, and range from 450 yuan
(US$60) to 988 yuan. While this may seem steep, the sheer effort that
goes into each creation justifies the cost.
Each menu starts with a playful element. The popular foie gras opera has
been given a timely update in the form of a strawberry-encased goose
liver cigarette, complete with ash tray and edible powder for dip.
The Thai fruit yogurt was concocted to demonstrate a lesson in balance
and does so with aplomb. Each morsel of the sour dairy brought a new
plethora of taste to the palate, leaving one marveling at their
tastebuds' ability to detect so many sensations at once. This was a
"welcome-back" note to returning diners, reminding them of what Jade is
capable of and where it planned to go.
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